The truth is that fashion has never been immune to the realities of life. Do we sometimes prefer to lean into the fantasy on the runway rather than face all that exists outside of it? Of course. But it will find its way in. Whether that’s in a moment of silence for Ukraine at Armani or the more in-your-face Armageddon that showed at Balenciaga—now more than ever the fashion industry is reacting to the world in all its dichotomies. Which isn’t to say that part of that the runway doesn't also provide a visual escape hatch. From a return to the art of feminine dressing as a response to so many months in sweatpants, to robe coats as self-care, to equestrian vibes that help get us all back into nature, see how the trends are mirroring our world now—or making it all a little prettier, and glitzier, to help the collective deal.
As we’ve all embraced getting dressed for work and parties again, there is part of all of us still yearning for #robelife. Speak to that inner cozy child in coats that wrap you up, go big, and, yes, sometimes go home again.
Clockwise from left: Balmain, Saint Laurent, Victor Glemaud, Nili Lotan, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Coperni, Bottega Veneta
If you’re looking for glamour, look no further. The ’80s are back—and bolder—and redder, than ever. Embrace oversized proportions and epic glitz in looks meant to be immortalized on film. It’s giving old-school Valentino red.
Clockwise from left: Carolina Herrera, LaQuan Smith, Paco Rabanne, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Moschino, Max Mara, Missoni
Of course, there is no one definition of femininity; it’s entirely subjective. But the mood dominating the runways is one of light colors, perhaps a feather, something diaphanous and lingerie inspired. In other words, we know it when we see it.
Clockwise from left: Burberry, Prada, Miu Miu, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Dior
Speaking of parties, evening, and after dark, the designer message is clear: It’s time to get back to black. But before you let intrusive thoughts of anything simple cloud your judgment, take note that these looks include some capital-S sparkle. Layer on the paillettes and shimmer like the night sky.
Clockwise from left: Etro, Givenchy, Peter Do, Michael Kors, Isabel Marant, Erdem, JW Anderson, Altuzarra
There’s just something so unabashedly cool about the bomber jacket. Designers are leaning into the fearless vibe a great leather jacket can broadcast, announcing that you can go fly a plane, kill it at a work meeting, or wear white trousers outside all day in NYC on a moment’s notice—shearling optional.
Clockwise from left: Khaite, Louis Vuitton, Coach, Akris, Prada, Sacai, Miu Miu
Designers are going back to the drawing board. A literal tabula rasa. And leaning into the power of a great white tank top. Perhaps throw a logo on it? Or keep it bare. But the point is, this must-have pairs well with just about everything and there’s a certain power in its ease. Ever tried too hard and looked longingly at the girl in jeans and a tank top wishing you’d done less? She showed up at Bottega Veneta and now we all want to be her, too.
Clockwise from left: Prada, Bottega Veneta, Christopher Esber, Chloe, Telfar, Chloe, Bevza
The trench coat is a closet staple, but that doesn’t mean you have to be one and done. The fall runways are full of versions that take the premise of your favorite tan jacket and turn it on its head. Why not opt for a trench dress? A trench with pleats? A trench with cut-outs? Suddenly this basic is feeling less, well, basic.
Clockwise from left: Burberry, Sacai, Burberry, The Row, Richard Quinn, Coperni, Dior, Proenza Schouler
The color story happening on the fall runways is pulled directly from your top desk drawer—borrowing the unabashed brights of your favorite highlighters. Whether you want to make an impact in bright yellow, magenta, or green—this trend isn’t for shrinking violets.
Clockwise from left: Valentino, Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Gabriela Hearst, Melitta Baumista, Michael Kors Collection, Alexander McQueen, Oscar de la Renta
The enduring chicness of Le Smoking is no accident. A woman in a tuxedo is something to behold, and now her options are endless. From super slim to slightly oversized, or paired with a baseball cap—it’s officially tux season.
Clockwise from left: Alaia, Ralph Lauren, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy
Designers have proven their affinity for taking inspiration from upper-crust leisure activities: tennis, golf, and, of course, all things equestrian. An unbridled love of horse girl culture currently reigns—if you’ll excuse our proliferations of puns—in the form of single-breasted jackets, slim trousers, knee-high boots, and anything else suitable for a weekend in the English countryside.
Clockwise from left: Rosetta Getty, Tory Burch, Hermès, Adeam, Off-White, Tod’s
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